THE CHEESE

Reading Raclette

Region: Reading, Vermont

Country: USA

Milk: Raw Jersey Cow

Affinage: at least 3 months

Producer: Spring Brook Farm

Reading Raclette is a relatively new cheese from our friends at Spring Brook Farm, having been in production since May 2010. Cheesemaker Jeremy Stephenson turns the raw milk from a herd of 40 pasture grazed Jersey cows into this semi-soft, slightly unctuous cheese using the same copper vats and cheesemaking equipment used to make Tarentaise. This cheese is definitely more approachable than some of its French or Swiss counterparts: milky sweet notes with a slight musty-ness that reminds me of dew-moistened hay. While most folks view raclette only as a melting cheese, I firmly believe that this one can stand up to any cheese plate.

One of my favorite things about Spring Brook Farm is its association with Farms for City Kids Foundation. The program combines classroom study with hands-on farming experience (think caring for animals, working in the vegetable garden, etc.) designed to show kids that academics is important for everyday life. Check out the website at http://www.farmsforcitykids.org/index.html

THE WINE

Producer: Jacky Janodet

Wine: Beaujolais Villages

Origin: Beaujolais, France

Grape: Gamay Noir

Vintage: 2009

Farming: Sustainable

The region of Beaujolais (south of Burgundy, north of Rhone) is seeing a renaissance, if not a revolution, in the integrity of its wines. Historically, Beaujolais represents a flimsy, sugary, fruit-water blah-ness. A massive region consisting primarily of low flat land producing gallon after gallon of quickly and questionably fermented wines (more so questionable when discussing Beaujolais Nouveau), the expectation is low from the consumer, or at worst rigidly defined.

A handful of producers in the higher elevated northern vineyards of the region are taking a different approach. Using sound farming practices and more painstaking production methods, The Gamay Noir grape is producing more refined wines. Gamay Noir will always have an acidic, juicy and fruity character, but advances in the production style is creating age-worthy, balanced wines, with more brooding food and far more character.

Our offering is a Village level, meaning the grapes are sourced throughout the northern vineyards of Beaujolais rather than a single vineyard or grapes from the low lying plantings in the south and comes from one of most forward thinking and respected producers in the region.

What is most important about these wines are their versatility with cheese. Their lively fruit and playful acidity converse well with most of our cheese case. If we can confidently steward our clients into trying and enjoying the Beaujolais, Cru level is next and we will be the only folks in the city representing what I truly believe will be a much more lauded wine in the next few years. Give me some feedback on people's reaction to the pairing and Beaujolais in general and have a great week.

THE PAIRING

from guest taster Matt Whalen

The whole is greater than the sum of its parts: the key to any great song, any great painting and this spectacular pairing!

Here the wine really brings the fruitiness of the cheese into the for front. The noses intermingle and the scent of peaches abounds. Remember those batches of like 14 month P. Ridge we were getting a couple months back, yeah that peachy.

The humble nature of raclette as an ingredient is blown out of the water and the subtle musty notes of the wine bring out all the alpine funk in the cheese.
The soft, velvety tannins flatter the texture of the cheese; mixing with it and creating a caramel raspberry vibe. Two simple components combine to create real complexity.

So, the next time you think, "I don't want raclette, that's just for melting!" You can pump your breaks, friend and just have your raclette with beaujolais!

Happy Pairing!

Cristi, Mark, and Matt